Pitti Immagine Uomo January 2012

14 January 2012

The words used to describe the men’s fashion collections at Pitti Immagine Uomo told the story of the season. They included ‘artigiana’ or craftsmanship, inspiration, sartorial elegance, colour, luxury and drape. The other ubiquitous word was wool. Wool is always the prime mover for winter, and for Autumn/Winter 2012/13 Merino was seen in very imaginative interpretations, exploiting its inherent qualities of colour, texture, softness and versatility. 

Textured, chunky knits sported Nordic snow motifs, cables and fancy moss stitch in ginger, brown, cream and navy. Crafted detailing included horn fastenings, leather loops and hide-covered buttons for authenticity. Knits for layering took the form of ultrafine wool sweaters or longer smooth V-necked cardigans, unicolour or striped in mustard, dark red, navy, put  with bright socks, ties and college scarves – major style elements predicted by The Wool Lab and fabric reports last season. 

 Designer suits majored on soft, flannel constructions, many with a shorter jacket and draping, cuffed trouser. This elegant look was seen on the Hardy Amies catwalk and featured in classic suit brands. Light grey woollens and worsteds led the field in plains, micro-designs, Donegals or pinstripes. The new suit jackets are short, single-breasted and skimpy, or double-breasted with two back vents. Tailoring details abound, like hand-stitched buttonholes, roped shoulders.

Suit jackets layered over chunky knitwear are often unlined, sometimes topped off with classically simple SB mid-thigh tweedy coats, or shower-proofed wool blousons with quilted lining. Giving rugged bulk, the look is destined for the urban man who requires his clothes to be stylish, top quality and multi-functional, including cycling to work.

Another key look is retro academic - dark shirt, the revived woollen tie, heavy glasses and tweed or check jackets. In country tones these jacketings are enlivened with flashes and flecks of bright colour for a new street-wise generation.

Event Details

10-13 January 2012

Florence, Italy