The fashion palette for suitings and casual summer jackets principally featured blue, from deep rich pottery shades to a pale china blue, at Successori Reda, Dormeuil and many others. Chalky neutrals or bright pastels for menswear were interpreted in extrafine wools and ingenious blends with linen or silk, producing unusual textures and 3D effects. Ermenegildo Zegna’s proposal talked of ‘rigorous use of natural fibres’.
A strong heritage trend to re-cast traditional patterns - signposted by The Wool Lab - enjoyed a palette of light pastels; dusty pink, blue, light green and nuanced shade cards of oatmeals. Micro-designs and well-recognised classics came in airy yarns including wool at Loro Piana, Lanificio di Tollegno, Vitale Barberis. Lane Botoli showed suitings in Merino Extrafine Super100s with a high twist, as well as its Lana light collection.
Mills are targeting a younger fashionable international customer. Some displayed ‘cool’ new Cool Wool showcards, including Yorkshire mills Alfred Brown, Dormeuil, Bower Roebuck and Savile Clifford, signalling that wool is right in there for summer 2013. Technical features abounded, such as a Cool Effect line by Ermenegildo Zegna with Micronsphere - a water and stain repellent membrane applied to pure wool fabrics. Loro Piana introduced trendy 60wool/40nylon shiny sports fabrics, while Reda’s 100 per cent wool fabric Ice Sense reflects heat and light and is totally invisible on a light-box.
Check designs leant towards Prince of Wales windowpane and gingham versions in various light blends. These included wool, cashmere and mohair at Carlo Barbera. Dormeuil, celebrating 170 years, presented its colourful anniversary collection in extrafine pure wool; Matterhorn Blue. Cerruti’s collection included 67/33 wool/silk in very lightweight checks. William Halstead produced a concise summer collection, noting that some customers unexpectedly sampled a slightly heavier weight in 100 per cent wool.
7-9 February 2012