PHOTO: Mel Bles
The global authority on wool can be found at Stand J84 in Hall 5, and will present The Wool Lab Spring/Summer 2015 along with the latest in Cool Wool fabrics from its Cool Wool campaign.
The Wool Lab is a seasonal guide to the most interesting trends and best wool fabrics and yarns, with the latest offering presenting seven inspiring trends for the upcoming spring/summer season. Both an inspirational tool and a sourcing guide, The Wool Lab is created by The Woolmark Company in collaboration with the most innovative and quality-oriented spinners and weavers from across the world. It is a collection of the most interesting, commercially available wool products, in line with the leading fashion and textile trends.
The tool has been created for designers, manufacturers, retailers and fashion brands and to all professionals of the fashion and textile industry, to educate and inspire them about the infinite potential of wool, and to provide a concrete sourcing service, putting them in contact with the world's best wool spinners and weavers.
The Woolmark Company's Cool Wool Campaign continues to gain momentum since it was relaunched at Première Vision, Paris in 2012. A revival of the Cool Wool campaign from the 1980s, the current incarnation highlights Merino wool's trans-seasonal properties and presents a collection of fine, lightweight fabrics suited to warmer seasons, climates and changes in environments.
Advancements in technology have allowed manufacturers to produce much finer, lightweight fabrics and clothes than in the 1980s, and in recognition of this Cool Wool specifications were modified for the current campaign to better resonate with today's market needs and demands. Cool Wool garments are manufactured from lightweight Merino wool fabrics with a maximum weight of 190 g/m2 using 22.5 micron wool fibre or finer. The fabric/garment surface is clean and smooth. Cool Wool fabrics and garments carrying the Woolmark logo are normally 100 per cent Pure New Wool but can include blends of wool with fine animal fibres
Eighteen of the global Cool Wool licensees will have Cool Wool fabrics available on their stands at Première Vision, see listing below of where to locate them. The Woolmark Company stand will present the current consumer campaign being featured in British Vogue consisting of a 16 page advertorial in the current February catwalk issue. Information is also available regarding additional Cool Wool collaborations and campaigns including Richard James, Paul Smith, Lou Dalton, Christopher Raeburn and Jonathan Saunders.
For its sixth edition, The Wool Lab SS15 proposes seven inspirational themes:
1. HONG KONG
The theme is inspired by Hong Kong's sophisticated atmosphere of the 1940s, when the power of the British Colony was at its highest glory, varying the ancient Chinese costume with refined and clear-cut flair. The mood reflects this colonial way of life made by relaxed but always elegant outfits, with sophisticated fabrics of the tailoring tradition for suits in classic and new blends. The oriental atmosphere also influenced womenswear fabrics enriched by typical floral prints. Light grey and beige in their classical variations dominate the colour palette.
100 per cent extrafine Merino wool; expression of the Cool Wool concept ideal for the hottest weather, also blended with noble fibres such as silk, mohair and linen. New classic weaves and patterns, pin stripes, twill, glen check and Prince of Wales. Very fine worsted wool yarn; interesting mélanges.
A trend made by pastel colours, inspired by the luxurious and prestigious atmospheres of the Excelsior Hotel at Lido of Venice in the 1960s. A refined and never ordinary elegance made of coloured jackets with check patterns both for menswear and womenswear. This includes sophisticated and delicate prints for women's shirts and dresses and the timeless elegance of jackets for men - even during their 'free time'. The colour palette is brighter, including light green, delicate pink, cream and orange.
100 per cent wool, wool/cotton, wool/linen, wool/silk and wool/hemp in refined structures and patterns: hopsack, twill, panama, herringbone, evident sablé, overchecks and prints for women. Yarns are mélange, two ply, knoppy and crêpe. Jacquard wool jersey and fine knit.
Inspired by the increasing number of international bloggers, this theme is a hymn to originality and colourful style, where the only rule is to impress through the usage of new stylistic codes. Today's younger generation perfectly embodies this kind of style, with their disposition to use original patterns combined to each other with strong colours, check and evident jacquard contrasts.
Wool is in 100 per cent or mixed with linen or cotton with original structures and patterns such as madras check, maxi vichy and evident stripes or graphics. Plain yarns for fancy fabrics and for the knitwear.
During the post-war period in Italy the balera, or dance hall, started to diffuse throughout Italy. Typical and popular dance halls, these places gathered people who wanted to rediscover life's simple pleasures and joy of living through dance after war's deprivations. The theme recalls that joy can be combined with the will of beauty and elegance in a simple and accessible way. Classic colours and fancy stripes for the men; floral prints on the ultra-feminine women dresses.
Wool combined with cotton, nylon and viscose with washed finishing. Fancy patterns and structures such as stripes, vichy, seersucker, chambray and micro check. Yarns are mouliné, mélange and crepe.
The theme embodies the perfect combination between fashion and architecture, where cuts and shapes of dresses are inspired by the same geometrical lines of buildings. Elements illustrates a search for cleaning and linearity, typical of Japanese minimalism, with colours inspired by building materials such as chalk and cement. Touches of green and blue complete this lucid vision as a building standing out against the sky, but with its feet concretely anchored to the ground. Focus on fabric structures that are never dull.
100 per cent wool or wool mixed with cotton, silk, linen or viscose. Structures and patterns reflect the mood of the theme: gauze, ottoman, honeycomb, ajouré, graphic jacquard. Wool Jersey is here very important, also patterned.
This theme is inspired by the sailing world and honours its sporty and high-performance clothing. Functional garments that express a dynamic and fun approach to a life that is devoted entirely to the sea. This passion is also reflected thorough the colour palette that is influenced by lighthouses and buoys, and through the finishing treatments that are aged and worn.
100 per cent wool, wool/cotton or wool/nylon blends also for the technical fabrics. The structures and patterns of the fabrics embody this sporty and lived life through worn and washed effects, film coloured coating, bonding.
Inspired by the genuine country life of Australian farmers, against the backdrop of the outback and its landscape. A simple and practical style made of trousers, shirts and coats for both men and women, with a colour palette that recalls the thousand warm shades of the earth at the sunset. A rediscovery of the wool fibre applies to this urban wear, especially for its thermoregulation qualities which make the fibre ideal for the warmer months of summer. The look is worn and washed with innovative and long-lasting treatments for the fabrics.
Wool blended with cotton and other vegetal fibers such as hemp, linen or silk. Small prints on jersey for women's shirts. Chambray, twill, panama, waffle and soft double gauze for the fabrics. Colour coating effect and long lasting treatments. The fabrics' look is mostly worn and washed.
Cool Wool licensees exhibiting at Première Vision in the Distinction area:
- Lanificio Cerruti - 6L10 6M5
- Charles Clayton - 6M13
- Joseph H. Clissold - 6K24 6L19
- Tallia Di Delfino - 5P4
- Dormeuil - 6L20
- John Foster - 6M13
- William Halstead - 6M13
- Hield Brothers - 6K22
- Holland & Sherry - 6K24/6L19
- Taylor and Lodge - 6L24
- Ipekis - 6P16
- Nikke - The Japan Wool Textile Co., Ltd - 6N13
- Raymond - 6M30 6N25
- Reid & Taylor - 6M13
- Shandong Nanshan Fabric & Garment Co.Ltd - 6N10 6P3
- Shandong Ruyi Woolen Textile Co., Ltd - 6N16 6P9
- Jiangsu Sunshine Co. Ltd. - 6R10 6S9